Author: Caldeo Sookram
Publication:
Date: July 19, 2003
Devotees at the Brickfield Shiv
Mandir enjoy tasty Indian dishes served on Soharee leaves. The leaves (above)
grow in swampy areas of Trinidad. Photos: Caldeo Sookram
THE Soharee leaf, a plant native
to Trinidad has served the Hindu community for more than a century. In
fact, Hindu scholar Ravi ji believes that over 100,000 leaves of this plant
are used in one month alone for the various Hindu functions held in this
country.
The Soharee was originally a roti,
according to Ravi ji. It was the most prestigious roti within the family
of rotis during the early years of indentureship.
Soharee roti came from India and
was used as divine food on festive occasions. It was a small roti fried
in ghee and served mainly to the Brahmins.
In India, food is traditionally
served on leaves during religious occasions and other festivals. Fig leaves
were used and the "donaa'' a knitting of lotus leaves into the shape of
a plate was also used.
When Indian indentured immigrants
came to Trinidad they found the Soharee leaf much to their liking. The
plant grew in abundance in swamp lands. And since the Indians refrained
from touching the fig leaves because that was the property of the colonial
master, they readily turned to the Soharee leaf.
As the use of Soharee roti declined
over the years, festive occasions soon came to be called by the name Soharee,
said Ravi ji.
Soharee means food for the Gods,
he said. Indian food needs space because of the variety of dishes served,
said Ravi ji. Hence the reason why a large leaf is preferred to accommodate
rice, kharee, curry mango, pumpkin, potato, channa, bhagee and salad.
Commonly called Cachibou or Cascadura
bush, the Soharee leaf is a member of the Marantaceae family of which there
are more than 100 species distributed worldwide.
The plant grows to a height of nine
feet, but can vary according to fertility of the soil. It is called cascadura
bush because the cascadura fish find a peaceful abode among the roots of
the plants. They also lay their eggs there.
The plant, also called "Calathea
lutea'' grows in swampy areas in and around Nariva Swamp, Cedros, Sangre
Grande and Point Fortin. It grows in other Caribbean islands namely Jamaica,
Puerto Rico, Guadeloupe, Martinique, Dominica and in parts of Central America.
Soharee leaves are reaped throughout
the year by people who trade in the commodity. Many market vendors are
always ready to supply leaves for a fee. In other instances people volunteer
and cut the leaves free.
At a Hindu function, long tables
with chairs or benches are lined up in a special area designated for feeding
guests. Soharee leaves are placed before each peron seated at the table.
Then someone comes running in with
paratha, another with rice and others with a variety of Indian curries.
The whole exercise is one of thrill and excitement. There is no eating
limit and guests can eat as much as they wish and even take some food home.
Indian food is commonly cooked in
a big bandara pot and a whole village can partake of the meal. There is
a common belief that the food tastes sweeter when served on a Soharee leaf
and eaten with hands, said anthropologist Dr Kumar Mahabir.
In recent times Hindus who have
migrated from Trinidad to New York, Miami and Toronto keep in touch with
their friends and family to get a supply of Soharee leaves. Instead of
using western cutlery they serve their guests at pujas, Ramayan yagnas
and weddings on Soharee leaves and keep a tradition alive.
There was an incident, it was reported
many years ago, where a foreign visitor was served Indian food on a Soharee
leaf. He ate all the food and also devoured the leaf because he thought
the leaf was part of the dish. After eating the Soharee leaf, he said the
salad was a bit stiff.
The Hindus in Guyana and Suriname,
unlike their Trinidad counterparts use lotus leaves which grow in abundance
there.
The leaves can last for the duration
of a one-week Ramayan yagna. They are tough and easily disposable.
