Author: Sudha G. Tilak
Publication: The Hindustan Times
Date: February 26, 2004
URL: http://www.hindustantimes.com/2004/Feb/26/printedition/260204/detOFF01.shtml
It's that time of the year when
Chennai is at its best. Over 81 sabhas host more than 5,000 classical dance
and musical performances.
Literally, there's a song on everyone's
lips. But the oncoming summer breeze has a strange nip to it. For those
who go to Chennai waiting for the next social revolution to take place
for that perfect casteless and secular society will be amazed at the religious
fervour the city exudes.
It's all over the place. The official
figures may say that there are some 5,000 large and medium-sized temples
across Tamil Nadu, but no one's keeping count of the tiny temples that
are perched on the junction of many lanes across the state. Today, many
of these shrines, often fitted on compound walls of homes to ward off evil
at street corners, have mushroomed into important looking neighbourhood
temples. They boast of long queues of devotees waiting for the morning
darshan or circumambulating the adjoining peepul tree by evenings. 'Temples'
that were not seen yesterday are now fluttering circulars on the forthcoming
kumbhabhishekam festivities, a status-bestowing ceremony for a temple.
A decade ago, the average Chennaiwasi
went about observing his religion within the confines of his home with
women visiting temples on Fridays and Tuesdays. Now each morning heralds
the power of a new deity in a temple in the city, nudging by the side of
the latest glass and chrome mall. Locals also murmur gratefully about legends
that include generous grants from Tamil Nadu's biggest political deity,
Chief Minister J. Jayalalitha, for reviving a dead temple in Thanjavur
or offering special prayers in another temple near Madurai. That is, when
she herself is not photographed offering elephants to temples for bigger
boons.
Those who wagged fingers at the
high caste Hindu phenomenon of temple societies of the past are now witness
to the slow co-option of the various castes and classes into the same religious
fold they once shunned. A visit to any one of Chennai's temples from Mylapore
Kapaleeswar temple to the Triplicane Sri Parthasarathy temple to the Mundakaniamman
or Mupathamman temples will reveal how the caste doors have crumbled to
allow in devotees from every strata of society. Advertisements add to the
glamour. Actor Rajnikanth is reported to have frequented a certain Kalikambaal
kovil. Following that bit of news, the entire God-fearing Kodambakkam film
community religiously visit the temple. The local autorickshaw driver needs
only the command: "Go to the cinema stars' temple" and he will promptly
park you outside the gopuram entrance in George Town.
Gone are the days of wearing black
in protest and street graffiti screaming "No God" in Chennai. Today, compound
walls showcase posters of the latest godman or cult. It is no secret that
the DMK politicians' womenfolk are religious, often spotted offering prayers
in Chennai temples and have often been interviewed by local wags primly
admitting that their husbands never 'interfere' with their being devout
Hindus. Religion has also turned techno-savvy with Tamil websites facilitating
to offer special prayers in temples, and sites carry special spiritual
discourses. TV channels too beam serials complete with evil men tamed by
the divine power of the goddess. Yesterday's sex bombs are now tele-baptised
by these religious serials.
Hindu religious magazines (at last
count, there were 25 of them) have pitched in with promotional offers of
laminated pictures of Ganesha and free copper talismans with each issue.
Astrological and religious magazines predict the auspicious colours for
the year ahead with ominous commands: "Buying your mother a yellow coloured
sari will ensure her health and special prayers on the second Friday of
each month promise wedding bells for the unmarried."
Amid such holy vapours political
pundits predict that the religious-minded parties have more of a chance
at the electoral turnpikes this time around. The Tamils are, it seems,
a God-fearing people.
