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A Delhi journey

A Delhi journey

Author: Ayaz Amir
Publication: The Asian Age
Date: March 13, 2004

Introduction: If Pakistanis were to see more of India they would find their horizons expanding. They would realise that whereas some of the hype behind "Shining India" owes more to the advertising arts, some of it is testimony to solid achievement. Why is India the great centre of American outsourcing? Why not Pakistan? Why hasn't Pakistan attracted foreign capital? Why hasn't it focused on education and hi-tech medicine?

Karachi: I am a veteran of the Lahore-Delhi run, the short journey most Pakistanis take when embarking on the often maddening, sometimes exciting quest of discovering India. Short by air, that is. And beguilingly short on the map. By train and bus it is a feat of endurance, not to be attempted by the squeamish traveller.

How many times have I been in Delhi since 2000 and wished there was more to urban sprawl than a never-ending sea of traffic? A modern purgatory is what the Indian capital most closely resembles as the evening rush hour starts.

India at present is caught in a mood defined by two slogans: "Shining India" and, its next-of-kin, the "feel-good factor." India is supposed to be on a shining path of development and its people are supposed to be feeling great about their current level of well-being.

That at least is the prevailing mythology and something which you have no reason to disbelieve if television, swank hotels (real good ones) and the shopping malls of Gurgaon, the new city with its big farmhouses which has sprung up on the road to Jaipur in South Delhi, are your only windows on reality.

Never mind the decrepitude of Uttar Pradesh, the lawlessness endemic in parts of Bihar and elsewhere in the north, or the 400 million Indians for whom Shining India is a bewitching image on a television screen.

Never mind bad cell phone connections during the morning hours. "The travails of Shining India," as a friend wearily remarked when our cell conversation got cut the third time.

What would be the Pakistani equivalent of "Shining India?" "Pakistan First," I suppose, the quick-fire slogan designed to cover if not explain the belated dawning of wisdom on questions ranging from Afghanistan to Kashmir.

Fuelling the "feel-good factor" is a surge in middle class consumerism: cell phones, designer clothes, more TV channels and, of course, more cars on the road, the phenomenon which gives Delhi its purgatorial look.

Adding to the "feel-good factor" is the new upsurge in relations with Pakistan. Like other things, this too is credited to the wisdom of India's answer to Confucius, Atal Behari Vajpayee.

If the BJP wins, this is the second election the party would owe in some measure to Pakistan's military ruler, General Musharraf, the first being the election in 1999 after Kargil. Vajpayee and his party played the war card then, now it's the peace card. The BJP probably doesn't realise it but it has a strong ally in Pakistan's military government. Pakistan too should have the sense to realise the advantages of dealing with the BJP. The BJP won't deliver anything on a platter. So there's no room for any illusions on Kashmir or of a breakthrough on any other front.

No point in forgetting that the subcontinent's leading quality is cussedness, a genius for cultivating belligerence and stubbornness often for no reason at all, or for reasons hard to fathom. But at least the BJP talks peace and raises the peace flag from time to time, something which the Congress when in power, in fear of being seen as soft on Pakistan, was unable to do.

The two parties are sprung from different genes, a fact which tells on their outlook: the Congress secular but taking the Muslim vote for granted and feeling more comfortable with a hard line on Pakistan. The BJP peddling a frankly communal and obscurantist line but a bit more sensible and pragmatic on Pakistan and, at least in this election, not taking the Muslim vote for granted.

In a better world, the BJP's incipient Nazism (let there be no doubts on this score, the RSS, the BJP's spiritual parent, being a subcontinental variation of fascism) would be an opportunity for Pakistan to look good in contrast, a chance to invite invidious comparisons at India's expense. But Pakistan, alas, went down the obscurantist path much before India discovered the BJP. And since it is still stuck there, unable or unwilling to map out a new journey, this opportunity remains unfulfilled.

Pakistanis proclaim and often revel in their country's strategic importance. They ignore the regional ghetto to which, more by accident than design, their country has been reduced. Consider these facts.

Although a neighbour, Iran is not on the travel or mental path of most Pakistanis. Nor does it figure much in Pakistani calculations, which is a pity considering that once both countries were close.

Afghanistan is a battleground and therefore not much of a travel destination or a learning experience. It is also the source of bitter memories. A generation of Pakistani generals sought "strategic depth" in its bitter terrain, only to reap a harvest of pain and frustration.

The wide arc to the north is blocked as much by high mountains as continuing strife in Afghanistan. That leaves India. The natural thing, sanctified by history and dictated by geography, would have been for Pakistan and India to turn to each other.

It didn't happen this way for obvious reasons. Partition and the bloodletting accompanying it left painful memories behind. Both countries drifted into war over Kashmir. They fought another war in '65, still another one in 1971.

Perhaps these were necessary wars, rites of passage for both countries before they could emerge from the shadows and leave the past behind. Not all the old fears have gone, not all the old shibboleths completely demolished. Two generations of Indians and Pakistanis grew up distrusting and demonising each other. This legacy won't go away in a hurry.

Even so, a lot has happened. Both countries have moved on. The world around them is different too. This may not call for friendship, a word there is no point in romanticising. But at least it calls for rewriting the old script of confrontation.

If Pakistanis were to see more of India they would find their horizons expanding. They wouldn't be enamoured of India. No danger of that happening. But, given a modicum of luck, they would realise that whereas some of the hype behind "Shining India" owes more to the advertising arts than anything more real, some of it is testimony to solid achievement.

India has moved ahead in certain fields. Cyberabad, the computer centre of Hyderabad, I have seen from the outside and it's a wonderful thing. I wish we had something of the sort in Pakistan.

Why is India the great centre of American outsourcing? Why not Pakistan? Why hasn't Pakistan attracted foreign capital? Why hasn't it focused on education and hi-tech medicine? These are the things we should be competing in. We should be paying more attention to education otherwise we'll be left so far behind we'll have a hard time catching up.

Chandrababu Naidu has turned Hyderabad around, no doubt about it. He has his critics but then which achiever doesn't? In about eight years Hyderabad, once famous for its exquisite culture and lordly ways, has been transformed into a centre of hi-tech industry. How did Naidu do it? Not by waving a magic wand but by providing dependable infrastructure. That and not the climate brought multinationals to Hyderabad.

This is what we should be doing instead of frittering away our energies in aimless and stultifying pursuits. In Pakistan it is not Islam in danger but good sense and rationality.

If the great white elephant that the National Defence College in Islamabad is can somehow bring itself to do it, it should make an India tour a compulsory part of its syllabus. This would be an educative experience for its students. This can be done on a reciprocal basis with budding Napoleons from India visiting Pakistan. We need not be friends. Let's keep this for another time. But at least let us try to be intelligent rivals.

By arrangement with Dawn
 


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