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Nose held high

Nose held high

Author:
Publication: The Pioneer
Date: June 13, 2011
URL: http://www.dailypioneer.com/345174/Nose-held-high.html

The Katoch royals of Kangra are resurrecting lost glory, built over centuries of art, culture and, wonder of wonders, plastic surgery, says Neeti Nigam

It seems we have fumbled on a potential patent long before Basmati - the nose job. The Katoch royal family of Kangra, which claims to be one of the oldest in the world, has references which say that its kingdom was scientifically advanced centuries ago to become a medical tourism hotspot for rhinoplasty.

Alexander Cunningham, the first Director-General of Archaeology in India (1861-85), once said: "The repair of noses still goes on in Kangra, although greatly fallen off since the end of the Sikh rule when amputation of the nose was a common punishment. But people still come from Kabul and Nepal for treatment." French traveller GT Vigne, who visited India in 1833-39, has extensively described the Kangra method of rhinoplasty in his travelogue. This is not unbelievable, considering the fact that in 600 BC, Sushruta had mastered the art of nose surgery for those who were punished for adultery.

Then, there is a story of Bidhya, a Kangra surgeon, who reshaped a thief's nose that had been chopped off on Akbar's orders. When the man appeared in court, the Mughal emperor was surprised. He invited the surgeon and rewarded him with a jagir for his skill!

Royal guard

Kangra's another lasting legacy is its fort, which, incidentally, is shaped like a nose! Situated on a hill above Kangra town, the royal family is today spearheading efforts to rescue the fort, which the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) says is the oldest in the country.

With 11 gates and 23 bastions, and protruding over the confluence of rivers Manjhi and Ban Ganga, forming a natural moat of sorts, the fort's high walls were at one time impregnable. Looking up at the three-mile high ramparts, prince Tikaraj Aishwarya Katoch sketches his genealogy back to the Ramayana. "Lord Rama's sons, Luv and Kush, were helped by the king of Trigarta (a Katoch) to fight Lakshman. In Sanskrit, kat means sword and och means high. A Katoch was, therefore, believed to be a good swordsman," he adds.

Historically, however, the Katoch family is first referred to by a Greek scribe accompanying Alexander.

Prince Aishwarya stops us when we bend down to enter the Ranjit Singh Gate, asking us to put our right foot first. "My ancestors believed that if you enter the gate bending your head, an infiltrator hiding somewhere could cut your throat," he says.

There were layers of security, indicating Kangra's strategic worth. There's the metal-plated Ahini Gate with iron spikes, the Jahangiri Gate built by Jahangir and the Andheri Gate wide enough for just two persons to go through a 15-ft narrow passage. Above the side walls are flat terraces where the Katoch army was positioned to rain down weapons on the enemy.

The fort has a long history of important battles. One of the first enemies to capture the fort was Mahmud of Ghazni in 1009 AD, who took advantage of the absence of the Katoch ruler. Such was the wealth that though Ghazni's garrison had elephants and horses, he couldn't take the whole of it back. And, he could loot only eight of the 21 treasure wells! In the 1890s, the British looted another five. Locals still believe that the fort hides eight more.

Stories of the kingdom's prosperity even attracted Akbar, who first became an ally and then tried to confiscate the entire property. It was, however, Jahangir's forces that could breach the fort after a 14-month siege. In 1627, when Mughal power was waning, Maharaja Hari Chandra started conducting guerrilla warfare to recapture the fort. But he was captured and his skin peeled off. In 1751, his grandson, Maharaja Ghambir Chandra, avenged his death by recapturing the fort. "I've heard heroic stories about how my ancestor took revenge by flaying an entire contingent of Mughal forces," says prince Aishwarya.

As the Mughal empire declined, the Katoch kings consolidated their hold over Kangra for a short period under Sansar Chandra. The region was then occupied by Ranjit Singh of Punjab, followed by the British.

As we cross historical milestones, the climb gets steeper and we reach the Darsani Darwaza - the gate to the sanctum sanctorum. If the lead-up is progressively tortuous and daunting, the Darsani Darwaza is the antithesis, flanked as it is by two welcoming statues of Ganga and Yamuna and leading into the palace courtyard. There are three stone-carved temples - Lakshminarayan, Ambika Devi and a Jain temple. The 1905 earthquake destroyed much of the fort, especially the Lakshminarayan temple, but the intricate carvings exist to tell the story of exquisite craftsmanship.

As we enter the Ambika Devi temple, we find the priest performing the evening aarti. Regarded as the kul devi, the family performs an annual havan in front of the centuries-old idol. There is also a 5,000-year-old Mahavir idol, believed to have been made when the saint was alive. Hence, the temple figures prominently on the Jain pilgrim circuit.

Some wells and ruins of living quarters are all you see, but there's silence in this heap of broken images of a rich past. I walk to the edge of the palace to get into a polygonal watchtower that offers a spectacular view of the Kangra valley. There is a separate balcony from which the royals used to enjoy the sunrise and sunset. I stand equally fascinated, drenched by the golden glow. They say Kangra belonged to him who owned the fort; I couldn't agree more.

The open house

The Kangra royals have for long been trying to revive their culture and monuments. They have managed to recreate a slice of past glory at the Maharaja Sansar Chandra Museum, which houses a large collection of artefacts from the seventh century onwards. Close to the fort, it was recently inaugurated by His Holiness Dalai Lama. Raja Aditya Katoch believes that he and his ancestors are finally at peace. "The charm is coming back to this Valley. Every king prayed to a God for peace. The Dalai Lama is the devta of this valley," he says.

To highlight the lost fine arts, traditions and the Kangra way of life, the museum has four galleries. We get a sense of entering hallowed portals as we spot the Katoch family tree predating the birth of Christ. The central gallery is a recreated Rajput durbar, Sansar Chandra's silver throne being the showpiece. It is flanked by golden chairs meant for his princes and British residents.

The second gallery is the home of Kangra miniature paintings, almost a photographic documentary of the times.

One of the paintings of dancing courtesans in a royal court has names of all the nobles and dancers present at the occasion. "During Sansar Chandra's regime, there was a renaissance of art and culture as he ensured peace and stability," says Aishwarya.

The museum is a tribute to the royal family that will always be admired for its generosity. "There were plays enacted in the province about the chivalry and romance of my ancestors. There's one about how Sansar Chandra fell in love with a woman of the Gaddi tribe during a tour of his kingdom. Her beauty enchanted him so much that he abducted her. She would sit by the palace window so that her husband could look at her while returning home from grazing sheep," he adds.

Some horoscopes tumble down from the walls, pointing to the importance Katoch rulers laid to astrological predictions before any venture - be it commissioning a civil project or going to a war. Mughal coins with embossed calligraphy, Persian manuscripts, the royal costume gallery, which could be an inspiration to couturists studded as they are with precious stones and set in a mesh of silver and gold embroidery, and folk art represent the clutches of history that the royal family is clinging on to.

Prince Aishwarya points out to the silver furniture of Rajmata Shailendra Kumari, the princess of Tehri-Garhwal, as a reference point for talking about her legacy. "My great grandmother-in-law was a liberal who came out of the purdah. It was because of her that my mother-in-law could contest elections and become an entrepreneur," says Tikarani Shailja Katoch, wife of prince Aishwarya. The prince himself momentarily forgets he is touring with guests and looks at the armour and artillery section with a boyish curiosity.

"As a kid, I was fascinated with stories of Sansar Chandra. At times, I even tried wearing his armour," says Aishwarya.

An average day of a prince would start with morning exercises like wrestling and sword-fighting, followed by private lessons on all subjects, particularly those related to state affairs. By the evening, he would participate in cultural events. "All princes were taught to appreciate art, music, dance and food traditions since childhood," says the prince.

There is a photograph of the adolescent Dhruv Chandra, the last ruler of the Katoch family (in 1947, he merged his state with the Union). Of the 52 children from nine wives of Jai Chandra, Dhruv was the only son who remained alive. "We fell victim to many conspiracies. Jai Chandra's sons were killed, but his daughters were spared. To save Dhruv, his mother would dress him up as a girl. It was only when the British tried to take over the kingdom under the Doctrine of Lapse that his identity was revealed," says the prince. For us, the museum is a revelation too.

Keep the faith

To make the most of our trip, we make a quick detour of the holy shrine of Vajreshwari Devi on way to the station. The temple, surrounded by a stone wall, is alive with the colour of the Navaratri celebrations. Believed to have been built by the Pandavas during their exile, it was plundered by Ghazni and subsequently restored by Akbar's minister Todar Mal. "Later Maharaja Ranjit Singh repaired it and put the gurdwara-like dome on top. The 1905 earthquake ruined it completely and it was restored again in 1930. With the influence of Hindu, Muslim and Sikh architecture, it is today a shrine of religious harmony," says the temple priest.

What catches our eye is the idol of Dhayanu Bhagat, a disciple of the Goddess. Legend has it that Dhayanu begged the Goddess to preside over the territory, now known as western Uttar Pradesh, for eternity. She agreed to follow him on condition that he would not look back at her during the entire journey. Curiosity got the better of him and he turned back at Kela Devi (Agra) to see if she was indeed following him. The Goddess deserted him that very moment. Dhayanu failed to convince her again and cut off his head as a sacrifice. "The site has become an oath stone. Make a vow here which you will never break," says the priest.

A known shaktipeeth, Goddess Vajreshwari was injured here while killing Mahishasur. She cured herself by applying butter, a tradition celebrated on Makar Sankranti every year. There is also a shrine of Lal Bhairav; locals are scared to incur his wrath. They believe that neglecting him will expose them to earthquakes. "Fifteen days before the earthquake, the then priest noticed the lord crying. He has never cried after that. Now you can see him smiling which indicates this place will prosper," adds the priest.

Kangra lives with mystic truths in the lap of the Himalayas. You, too, will be converted.

- Copyright: Exotica, the wellness and lifestyle magazine from The Pioneer Group, available in all rooms of select five-star hotel chains across the country


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